Ytec3D Forum

Xaar, at least for the 128, works only with specific inks, and IIRC they are all oil based, so not UV hardening. The problem is that the piezo inside the header connected electrically by the ink. Running a Xaar 128 with water will shorten it and destroy it.

If there are any UV Inks that work with ...

This is so cool. I would love to build one. To fix the height issue, I suggest a laser line to compare the actual height with the required height and update the amount of ink deposited in the next layer.

Replying to MM04 interface question:

The RaspberryPi Pico can do up to 100MHz via DMA directly to the I/O port, so you could probably get 20MHz going for a 16 bit port. The RP2350 has 520kB RAM on chip that you could use to buffer a line before printing. If you want, all this runs in the Arduino ...

Standard inks have the wrong electrical resistance and will short out the piezos. Eventually they will burn out. You should only use ink that is specifically made for this head. You can try other ink made for piezo printers, for example Epson refill ink which is relatively cheap. But I have not ...

Oh, wow. That is a pretty good setup for, um, still 2.500 Euros, but better than sinking the cost of a car... . Looks like a very easy entry into these kind of heads!

I originally published the Xaar 128 PCBs and code here. It would be great if the OP could send me the data sheet and documentation. Maybe I can help a little. It would be even better if I could get my hands on one of those 1003 heads for a lot less tha 4k$. Any ideas?

Thanks, Wonko.

Pin 9 is marked as TEST 0, and the discs say "not required for operation, should not be connected".For pin 28 however, marked CLK, you must provide a 1 MHz clock signal to the print head. No PWM, just a 50:50 clock.

Try to find the Saar 128 manual. It describes also the pressure of the ink at the head (it is actually supposed to be negative).

You can test if your communication is working by fully connecting the serial bus and checking if the data that is pushed in on the MISO pin also comes out again on the ...

Pin 24 of the printhead "READY" is an output from the printhead to the Arduino if you choose to connect it. If READY is high, you can check nFIRE. It is switched high a soon as two of the three firing cycles got triggered. I have no idea what "nReady" signal you are referring to.

Yes, MISO, MOSI ...

Yes. Water will destroy your head. I don't know how ink is different, but it seems to have to do with conductivity. Maybe Epson heads can do that?