Clockwork Derby is played on maps of 12×16. The 17th row is reserved for the parking row, which is reserved for robotic game handling.
Each map requires targets to race to. I considered giving suggestions as to the placement of targets, but decided against it. A few simple rules are enough to place the targets in decent places.
The first target should be quite far away from the starting row, and a similar distance away from all players. This gives all players an equal chance to reach the target, and increases the chance of several players reaching the same target at once. The second till fourth target placement is much less important, since the targets need to be touched sequentially.
For an easy game, place targets in places away from danger. This allows the players to use the targets as save spaces. For a medium chaos game place the targets close to danger, so that pushed players or miscalculation are punished. For a spicy game, place some of the targets ON the danger (such as lasers or belts) to add a level of complexity to touching the target.
Current Maps
There are currently 7 maps available. Each of these maps has been designed with good gameplay in mind, but only limited play testing has occurred to test these maps.
The PNG files for each board are below. You can open the original image in a new tab to get the full sized image. Tiled files for each board can be downloaded here: https://ytec3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Board-files-Tiled-20241003.zip
Canyon
An open field with moderate danger, with a canyon splitting the map in halve. A narrow land bridge connects the two halves.
Detour
A single belt winds across the map, bringing you to where you want to go, eventually.
Factory (Save)
A factory with random machines and belts scattered all across the floor.
Factory (Danger)
The same factory with random machines and belts, but now with lasers too.
Island
An central island surrounded by pits. Mind the gap.
Roundabout
Belts wind around the center in several directions.
Stairs
Belts zig-zag across the map. Be careful not to move over the edge.
Custom Maps
To make the maps, I used Tiled. This is software made specifically to make game maps on, and it works amazingly well for this. It is free to download, though if you do use it to make a map, consider donating. Tiled has a simple interface and allows you to paint with an existing tileset to make a map. The software that plays the game simply loads the tiled files and figures out what board element is where. You can find out more about tiled at the link below.
A template to make your own boards is included in the files. This template includes the tileset and the layers, as well as the required tiles. Tiled works in layers. While you are not required to use the premade layers (the software does not care much about the layers), it does help keep your map organized. The function for each layer is:
- Base tiles: The cosmetic bottom layer of the game;
- Belts and rotators: All the belts and rotators for a game. Never stack belts or rotators on top of each other;
- Icons: All starting positions, the parking row and all healing points;
- Walls 1: The primary walls, used for all walls with lasers and pushers on them, and all walls that that can be put here;
- Pits: All pits;
- Pit edges 1-4: All edges of the pits, where each number is for a single direction. This allows all sides of pits to have edges;
- Pit details 1-2: Corner details for the pits;
- Wall sources: All laser sources and pushers;
- Lasers 1: All horizontal lasers;
- Lasers 2: All vertical lasers;
- Walls 2: All walls that receive a laser (so that the laser terminates at the wall). Also used for all walls that sit in a tile that already has a wall.
Tiled allows you to mirror and rotate tiles. Rotating can be done freely without consequence. Mirroring is only reserved for tiles that cannot be oriented any other way, such as curving belts. Mirroring any other tile might cause the software to misinterpret.
The software has a folder called “Board files”. Any map you have created can be copied to this folder. A tiled file is “.tmx”. The software needs to be restarted for it to load the newly added map.
To print a map, it needs to be scaled and modified for a printer. First go to the Tiled map you want to print, go to “File > Export As Image…”. Here you can export the board as a PNG file. The only check mark should be “Only include visible layers”. The template provided is for GIMP, an image processing program that is open and easy to use. It has a border, and a board at the correct size. You can simply drag the board file of your chosing into GIMP. The template should already have the correct scaling for the Tiled template, or 300×300 pixels per square. The editing software itself is not important, as long as each square is 22x22mm on the paper. The colored border is to prevent white edges on each board, which might be visible and break immersion.
You can download the Tiled template file and the GIMP file here: https://ytec3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Clockwork-Derby-Board-creation-files-20241003.zip
Inspiration
For inspiration for making your own maps, there is a site that holds a great catalog of maps, both official, with expansions, and fan made. While I cannot share these maps directly, you have all the tools to make whatever you want. The original game contains some amazing maps.
https://tartarus.org/gareth/roborally/boards/official
License
The project described on this page is licensed under the Creative commons – Attribution – ShareAlike license.