Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV

Fallout 4 was anounced June 4th, and I was immediately hooked. I absolutely love Fallout and have been looking forward to Fallout 4 for years. One of the first things that was obvious is that the old pip-boy, the Pip-boy 3000, has been replaced with a different model, the Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV. The new Pip-Boy has the buttons on the right instead of the left, and there are more buttons. It has a tape player on the top, and the opening mechanism is now defined. Now I rarely move aside running projects for something else, but Fallout is an exception. Time to make the Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV 3D printable.

Now there is a difficulty with this project, there is only limited reference. The Pip-Boy is already extremely difficult to design with proper reference, but now there is only a teaser trailer and the E3 video. This does not give the kind of reference I usually have. Another challenge is the huge amount of features in the Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV. I like to make as much features working as possible, and to get some of the features (most notably the tape player) working, was a real challenge. The people at Bethesda really tried their best to make the Pip-Boy as difficult as possible.

Another thing that was a real challenge was getting a phone to fit in this Pip-Boy. At the E3 it was announced that the collectors edition had a wearable Pip-Boy that could hold a phone, and so this 3D printed on also needed to be able to do that. There is only one problem. Smartphones have become bigger since fallout 3, and this Pip-Boy is smaller than the previous one. Bethesda has fixed this by breaking some of the proportions and dimensions to make a smartphone of decent size still fit. In some cases, dimensions are broken by around 1cm (which is way more than it sounds like). For the phone version of this 3D printed version, the proportions have also been broken to make the phone fit.

The 3D printed Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV comes in 3 sizes. This is because the previous version, the Pip-Boy 3000, was already too small for some people, and the Mark IV is even smaller in some regions. Simply scaling the parts up is not only time consuming and prone to mistakes, it messes up the design. Some holes in the parts are designed for the screws to tap threads. If these holes become 10% larger, the screws will no longer fit. The standard sizes that the pip-boy comes in are: 100%, 108% and 115%.

The Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV Phone edition is the version that will be most useful for most people. It can hold (as the name suggests) a phone that is within a certain size range. It is simply a case of printing it to have a usable Pip-Boy. To access the phone, 2 knobs near the tape player allow the front to come off. No tools are required to place and remove the phone (though it still take a half a minute or so). To make room for the phone, some of the buttons have been merged with the body of the Pip-Boy. It does have a latch mechanism and a tape player. The lights on the Pip-Boy can be 3D printed in clear plastic, and can be lit using colored LEDS. The gauges however cannot be lit, there simply isn’t enough room to fit lighting with the phone in the way.

(Edit 26-11-2015: The accurate version of the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk4 has been postponed until further notice. To design it I need to completely redo everything about the design (a 30 hour job) and I simply cannot find the motivation to do it with all other projects that I want to do. While I might do it at some point, don’t expect it to happen in the foreseeable future. My apologies to anyone who wanted the accurate version.)

The Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV Accurate edition (not yet finished) is the version for the serious tinkerer. It is as accurate as I can make it, with no sacrifice to fit anything in. This version can be used to make a wearable Pip-Boy computer, but for instance using a Raspberry Pi. It has all the same tube dimensions as the phone version of the Pip-Boy, but the body may differ in locations. It is also advised to download the source files of the accurate version in stead of simply downloading the STL files and printing, to make the design and all the buttons for to the parts you have available. All mechanical features, the latch and tape player are the same as on the phone edition, but more buttons can be made moving and all of the gauges can be made to light up (or even better, made working).

Making it

Phone sizes table 1

PB3k Mk4 Phone dimensions 1
PB3k Mk4 Phone dimensions 2
PB3k Mk4 Phone dimensions 3

 Click on the button below to go to the making one page. Here you can find a comprehensive gallery of photo’s on how to make and assemble the phone version, plus all 3D printer files in .stl format of the released versions.

Pip4 assembly

License

by-sa

The project described on this page is licensed under the Creative commons – Attribution  – ShareAlike license.

251 Comments

  1. Hi, I was wondering where to get these files? I’m probably stupid and overlooking it, but I don’t see any links to file sets

  2. What phones are people using? I printed the 115 phone version which came out great and my iphone 12S Max fits but the app is off center in the pip-boy. I guess because of the screen size, thinking i might get an old used phone thats smaller

  3. Okay so would it be a problem to sand or Dremel cut 1.3mm on the 115% Left and Right adding 2.6mm (Top and Bottom of Phone) If so, it will fit a Note 20 Ultra. I know it will fit the Note 9 as is which I have not sure if repair is cheaper then Cool otherwise may upgrade it and as you said rescaling could throw it off so figuring postproduction. Please advise.

  4. Awesome work!!!!

    The effort and amount of detail that went into designing and modeling this is just remarkable. For our version we were able to take apart a phone battery case, and hide the guts inside. This keeps the phone running longer without running down. We also did a slight mod to convert the hose into a USB cable, so we could connect the phone/charger to a power source without having to do a complete disassembly.

    I ended up reworking one of the buttons to accommodate an on/off switch for the lights, and remixing the white spool thing on the back to allow the USB cable to pass through. I’ll put some of those reworked parts on thingiverse as a remix to contribute. USB Conversion is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617803

    Thank you for designing this is a way that allows for routing of wires and making adjustments (vs. all solid parts). And thank you for designing this to handle having nuts placed in the parts, so the plastic doesn’t get stripped out. And thank you for designing this with 3D printing in mind (tear drop shaped holes vs circles, peaks vs. flat interior surfaces so supports aren’t needed as much, etc.)

    Just amazing thoughtfully designed work!

  5. Hey there ehm should i use Supports for it (I have already used it for one but im now sure of i need to use it) please help me!

    • You should use supports for all the big stuff at the very least. It varies between printers, but it is a good idea none the less. I recommend getting some pliers or sand paper or even a dremmel if you have a steady hand for cleaning the pieces after printing. Sometimes the program fills screw holes and other bits with supports.

  6. HI,you make so much interesting model ,but you don’t sale them,This makes me confused. so if you don’t mind i have two question want to ask you ,1 why don’t you sale them because it will be sale at a good price AND 2 ,what’s your job ,i ‘m a designer ,i have many interesting prototypes want to make ,but there is no time give me to do it ,all my time spend on my job .

    • Because of legalities. He doesn’t have the license to sell them, from Bethesda. Thus, he can’t introduce the product on the market for sale and distribution. He can give them away….and you buy him a six pack of beer. But there can’t be, legally, any exchange of capital for a product that is unlicensed by the proprietor of the Intellectual Property, that being Bethesda.

  7. I am a big guy, and I am more concerned about the Pip Boy fitting my arm. My wrist is 22 cm. around, and the largest part of my forearm is 34 cm. I think that means I need the 115% in order to fit, but I’m not printing it myself and want to be sure. I admire your effort and dedication. Thanks for the help.

    • It would be better is you did not measure circumference but width of the widest part of you wrist and arm. Arms usually are not perfectly round, and so will not give the right value. if you do use it, divide by 3.14 to get the diameter. This brings you somewhere between 100 and 108, but that is if your wrist is round.

    • I’m getting my parts in tomorrow, however whether it fits is purely dependent on how you mount the display. For mine (I’m using a poor quality 5 inch touch screen), I have to hack away at a part. However, with that part gone, it should fit nicely. I’ll inform you some more once I get this thing working.

  8. Im planning on making a pip-boy housing with the lattepanda​, including a 7″ touch display, any tips or ideas on this would be helpful.

  9. Really love the Pipboy! (Almost done with one)
    One thing I didn’t like is how you switched the LEDs on and off.
    I used your “Right button 2” file and changed it so it holds a 8x8mm switch & wires.
    This way you can use the top button to turn on the LEDs (or other functionality).

    Here is the link to the redesign: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1736379

  10. Hey, I wanted one of these for Halloween this year for a galaxy note 4… what size would be best, and can I get a link to the 3d printable model?

  11. Hey can someone help me figure something out? Ive gottten a 3d print of this off of ebay, but he wouldnt trll me the size, according to the measurements ive taken, my pip boy is slightly smaller than the 100%! For instance the “c” dimension on mine is only 101 mm! Can anyone tell me if im missing something? Please reply I think he ripped me off!!!

    • With a C of 101, I doubt you have been ripped off. I admit it is somewhat small, but it is within a workable range. 3D printers are not perfect and so deviations can happen.

  12. I live in a town where the ups store has a 3D printer but it looks like I have to have the CAD file in order to print. Any help on that and my only access to the Internet is a cruddy IPad so I’m not sure links would help much.

  13. I know this is a stupid question but do the switches and dials work? It’s a bit of a deal breaker for me because I enjoy actually fiddling with them

    • Sadly, they do not. Including them would make it hard for people to replicate. I also enjoy working dials but I have to balance between ease of assembly and coolness.

      • dragonator, I was wondering, if I could sell 3d printed pipboys using your design. I am willing to pay you royalties for using your design. I am planing to sell them for $80 to $90 and will give you money for letting me sell them. I am an amateur prop builder. I have seen others on etsy (the site i plan on selling them on with your consent) selling your design and i wanted to do this the legal way. My father is a sabersmith by the name of Ing Chao and i want to make props as well. i was going to go to another designer by the name of Daniel Lilygreen of My mini factory but, I like your design better. please let me know how much you want per pipboy and if i can sell them. My email is jocobcox@aol.com

  14. hey so, I’m printing this out for my tech culminating project. my iPhone 6’s measurements prove that it should fit the 100%, but at the left side of the screen body piece the top part of my iPhone shows and it looks like it won’t fit. how do i cover up the top white part of my phone without wrecking it.

  15. So i have a droid turbo (not the droid turbo 2) what size would fit it best, since it is a bit bigger than the iPhone6 and a bit thicker.

  16. guys, I really want one, and I have a little trouble finding THIS one anywhere, can anyone send me links or someone who’s made one? I desperately need one

  17. Hey ^^ I’m planning to print one of the phone variants on a CubeX Trio. Since I’ve got a Note 5 (153.2 x 76.1 mm) at the moment, would it be possible to use the 108% model and upscale it by 1% for an effective scale of 109.08% (153.823 x 76.356 mm) so it fits my phone? I would prefer not to print the 115% version, as I feel it’s unnecessary if the former is possible. Thanks in advance!

  18. Does anyone have dimensions on the holotapes that fit in the pipboy? I am experimenting with being able to insert an external battery with slight modifications on the pipboy.

  19. I have a Galaxy Note 4. Dimensions 153.5 x 78.6 x 8.5mm. Which size would you recommend me. Sorry i dont fully understand the chart. I dont want to order somwthing thats not gonna be useful. Thank you in advance

      • It’s a hyphen denoting range, not the width and height.

        However the ambiguity is too great, just because you list the diagonal, it doesn’t say anything about the actual width/height of the phone itself.

  20. I was wondering to make it for my BF, he has the samsung galaxy s6 edge and it’s metrics are 70,1 mm in width and 142,1 mm in height. Should I go for the 100% or the 108%?

    Thankfull for awnser 🙂

  21. anyway i can just buy one already made? i really like this more than the others i have seen out there, hell it looks better than the actual prop that comes with the collectors editions and im not so good with this kind of build stuff

  22. I was curious about the dimensions of the actual portion that goes around the arm. Could you list the size of the cuff because I have a fairly large arm and have run into scaling issues when looking into other projects.

  23. I have a xperia z3, 146 x 72 x 7.3 mm, would the 108% fit? I see it goes G 141 and then 152, should I do the 100% and sand it down to the 5mm difference, or will the with not fit?

  24. Hi there, I noticed the minimum size was marked as 140mmx140mmx100mm, but I have access to a 2013 Cubify Cube that is 5.5in (139.7mm each way). Is that recommendation set in stone or able to change in small amounts?

  25. Quick question, I have the galaxy mega – (original) I just bought it and don’t want to down size for this, Could the phone port be stretched to fit?

  26. i have the facilities to cast aluminum, so i thought: would it be possible to print these parts and cast them in aluminum? is there any problems i should be aware of? also, what does the size mean (100%, 108% and 115%), is that the overall size of the pipboy or just the size of the screen/phoneholder, and what size do you reccomend?

    • There is a table with measurements that are related to the percentages. The size I recommend depends on the diameter of your wrist and the size of your phone.

      As for casting in aluminium, you probably know more of that than me.

  27. Solid work in Solidworks with this one!

    Curious to see how long it will take me to make a remix of this replica. The prices mentioned to print something like this are outrageous to be honest. Will most likely go with injection molding since I have a bit of an OCD with reusing stuff. But in turn it should also cut the time form blueprint to prototype down to mere hours.

    Once again, nice work with the design!

    • how do you get the schematics for it to be able to print. whem i downloaded the zip file it kept saying certificate trust list and wont let me veiw it.

      • stl is sometimes confused by pc’s to this file type. If you have software for your printer, you can open the files using that software and it will just open them. There is no default program to open .stl files.

  28. I was wondering if there was an assembly file already built?
    I so it would be extremely helpful if its also posted. Please and thank you.

  29. Is there anyway you could email me the schematics for all the parts? Like the dimensions with all the angles and everything? I’m trying to make this on my own in my Cad class.

  30. Nice Job. But what size i Need for a Iphone 4 i got my 3D Printer and the pipboy ist my first Project now.
    The rbeery Pi Version what a Display Hat can i Fit in the Pipboy (Zoll) ?
    Great Job

  31. Are these the actual schematics, as in all the dimensions for every part, or are they just the files to print. I want to make one as part as a project in a CAD class

  32. Very cool. Currently about 40 hours into probably 60 hours of printing. I tend to print a little slower to make sure it sticks and to ensure a nice build. This first one I plan on painting. But also interested in printing out kits for those who might like to build their own. Still need to source out the misc parts to finish up the first build. So far, looking great!

    • Fully printed, did a dry assemble. Used ABS, due to shrinkage, assembly was tough when cutting threads. Regular screws were fine. This weekend I will be painting and final assembly. Will link some pictures once I finish final assembly.

      Willing to sell printed kits (no hardware, no paint, no glue, etc) for $150. Your choice of ABS or PLA. Your choice of color. I will print on demand only, so lead time is about 5 days.

        • This pip-boy, when printed, consists of 46 parts. Some are glued together, others use screws. Took me about 60 hours to print all the parts. Another couple hours to test assemble. This weekend I will be painting and reassembling. I will have pictures once I finish.

          3D printers take a reel of plastic filament, melts it, and layers it till it builds up the shape you designed.
          The two most common plastics used are PLA and ABS.

          PLA has a lower melting point, so its usually easier to work with, and some details will come out better. It bonds with most plastic glues. Due to its lower melting point, it will soften at high temps (don’t leave it in your car during a super hot summer day).

          ABS is a harder plastic. (legos are made of ABS) Some printers don’t like it because it is harder to print with. But the trade off is it stronger and sands a littler easier. Acetone will start to melt ABS, so one trick, instead of using glue, put a little acetone on the parts you want to join, and then push them together. When it dries, it will basically weld them together. Another down side to ABS is that is shrinks more when cooling than PLA. 2-3% So the final dimensions of your print could be smaller than the plans. This is evident when assembling my pipboy, as some of the screws can be a tight fit. I have a few minor gaps where some of the parts meet, which I might fill before painting.

  33. Hi guys, I am not too familiar with Fallout or what the Pip-Boy does lol but I run a commecial 3D printing website. I have actually gotten several inquiries for printing this unit so I am trying to put together a reasonable package for those that want one. What are you guys willing to pay for this if I can produce packages for you on a professional 3D printer? If there is enough demand I may be able to offer something at a somewhat decent price.

      • Probably looking at around $300 for a complete set. I’m sure that is high but to be honest that is with very little markup on our end. Unless you have your own printer it just may not be feasible to have done. Let me know what you guys think.

      • By the way, the stl files I have been sent have a LOT of pieces. My recommendation was to combine some of these pieces (perhaps for parts that don’t move or have to be separated). That would allow me to lower costs.

  34. I REALLY want to get one, and am willing to pay for it.
    Anyone here will be selling completed version on etsy.com?
    They currently only have outdated pipboys
    And I am not sure about 3dhubs. They are not familiar with this project, and i’d rather buy it from someone who knows what they are doing, and not oblivious freelancer

    • If you look at the dimensions on your phone and compare them with the table above you should be able to find which one is the best for you. Make sure your phone is a little smaller than the dimensions given, as it won’t fit if it’s bigger.

      I see this question a lot and for all the people that will still ask this, please use your brains and check it first. It’s not hard to find out, stop being lazy.

      By the way, if you still are too lazy, you need the 108% version.

    • I have considered it, but thus far I am not planning on making one yet. Making a stand just like the collectors edition version would take a dozen hours to print. Too long for something that took 25 hours to print.

  35. First at all,,,Thanks for beautiful design of Pip-Boy 3000 and new version Mark IV
    I am printing new version divided in 4 print using Simplify3D software.Printing in high quality 108% model with 0,02 thickness and slow printing speed of layer will take more than 40 hours + assembly time .Print out give impressive WOW effect ,connection part perfectly matching ,,,My best ever prints coming out…Soon i release my second printer i will give effort to complete MarkIV soon as possible
    Kind regards
    Edard

  36. Well, I thought this was amazing and could help me get a pipboy since bethesda failed to deliver :/.

    But it seems that printing In the Netherlands is about €10 an hour. So if all parts take 25 hours to print well. do the math :'( if I would be ready to spent that kind of money I’d just buy a printer myself.

    Am I calculating something wrong or is this seriously this expensive?

    • €10 is on the expensive side of reasonable. Some people ask that kind of money for it, and if you have a really good and/or really fast printer, you could. Normally, it should be something between €4 and €8, depending on the person, printer, material and print. 25 hours of printing actually is quite a bit of work.

      I never claimed this model to be a cheaper alternative to the limited edition Pip-Boy, I made it for enthusiasts of Fallout and people with 3D printers (and most preferably, both).

      • Wow, thought thats cheaper. If i dont have it i have 3d printers in my city that can print it for me. Whats best material to print that beauty ? 😛

      • I am thinking to print one too, but I don’t have any printer and the local printer service charge too expensive for that. Anyone can find with a reasonable price for printing this Pipboy?

    • Ugly, but my opinion about the pimp boy is not important here.

      Painting it gold seems a good place to start, then paint all protruding edges and faces platinum or silver and add diamonds to some of the lower parts (such as in between the grille),

      like this! (minus the diamonds)

      Pimp boy 3000 Mk4

  37. Call me a noob but I am unsure how to tell which phones are compatable with which sizes (I have a galaxy s4). If you or anyone else could explain to me how it works it would be greatly appreciated.

    On a second note, the accurate version says its coming soon(ish) however there are download files available. Have the accurate versions been completed, and are there any pictures or representations on what the finished product is supposed to look like? Thank you for all the work and I await your response. With regards Seth.

      • You could use the 100% with a bit work of a Dremel (the width is with 70.6 just a bit bigger) or the 108% with some filling material (like a shockabsorber for the Phone or some foam).

    • 1. The 100% version should work for the S4. What you do to determine if it’ll fit is you look at the F(width of the pocket for your phone) and the G(length of the pocket for your phone)

      2. Pictures are at the top of the post. The only thing that the current downloadable versions lack is the ability to turn the big knob on the right side of the pipboy because it is printed with the right side of the pipboy. I wore the pipboy at a local comic con yesterday and people wanted to know how I go one so soon.

  38. To figure things out for the phone, as best as I can tell you need to meet the parameters of the F and G dimensions. Please note, however, that these measurements are in millimeters, so you’ll need to convert your units of measurement to meet this standard. The smaller (F) dimension would be for the width while the larger (G) dimension would be for the length. While depth is not mentioned, as far as I can tell with a quick look, either foam spacers or a dremel could solve any problems with that I’d imagine, assuming youdon’t mind doing a bit of shaping and filling in the material afterwards.

  39. when measuring the size of your phone to see if it will fit or not, do you measure the phone vertically or horizontally?

  40. A quick Info for the ones of you without a 3d Printer. prab the files and go to 3dhubs.com there someone can print it for you.

    Also I would mention that others on Thingyverse working on a Mark IV too. There are at least 3 WIPs I’m knowing of with these as the most complex one.

    Please work together not only alone. I think together we would get THE Pipboy instead of several Versions

  41. Just letting everyone know, one 3d printing site you can check to get this done with is http://www.3dhubs.com. They’ll connect you with local printers who could do the print. Was able to find one near me that will cost about $95 plus shipping for a medium-detail print in ABS. Probably going to be a mess to clean up since it’s only medium detail in this case, but I’m fine with putting in the extra effort.

  42. So the price quotes im getting are 500-1000$ Canadian…. does that sound about right or am i doing somthing wrong?

    • Check the price of buying a 3d printer, I think your getting screwed by people who think their time is worth way more than it is.

    • Well it took me about 3 days to have everything printed properly. So I could imagine. (pro tip: the filament only cost me $14 ish and you gotta add paint and which takes another day or so.

  43. Is there a place I could get the solids, I don’t have a 3D printer but I am a machinest so I could use them to make parts using a cad/came program.

  44. When he says that it fits any standarized size phone he’s talking about an iPhone 5s up to a 6 Plus or something else?

  45. How to make a grub screw using a regular screw:

    Materials: Screw

    Tools: Dremel with metal cutting bit or hacksaw with metal cutting blade.
    Pliers

    Step 1: Secure screw with pliers
    Step 2: Cut of the head of the screw with metal cutting tool (dremel/ hacksaw)
    Step 3: Cut a ditch where the screw head used to be.

    Done.

  46. Way-to-go buddy! Fabulous job, looks great! Will be getting a 3D printer soon an this is on my list. Wonder if they’ll mind if I wear it to work?

  47. Any chance of a file upload with less individual files? Maybe have pieces sprued together or some such?
    I don’t own a 3D printer and looking around at various services they all seem to be limited to like 5 files a time with prices being pretty high all things considering.

    Amazing work though.

  48. It’s people like u bro! You’re the real heroes! Thank you! I don’t have a 3d printer, but I’m assuming there’s somewhere I can take this to, and they’ll do it for a fee. Anyone?

  49. Wondering why for “PB3k Mk4 Phone body buttons 1” you didn’t make the knob a separate piece like the other knobs?

  50. I will freaking pay you for this! No, seriously, I “need” a Pip Boy 3000 Mark IV. Name the price and I will save my money or bottlecaps for it.

    • This is an answer to everyone who is asking. I cannot sell any of these. I already have 10 hours too little in a day as it is, without selling Pip-Boys. 3DHubs can help you find a local 3D printer. Etsy has people who will sell completed versions (I already know one person who is working on it)

  51. I don’t have a 3d printer. Is there a way to purchase a pip boy?? Id gladly pay for this it looks amazing. Or is there a place to go that has a 3d printer that’s available to the public?

  52. On “PB3K MK4 Phone front 2” some of the velcro holes are not extruded all the way through. I just used a hot knife to cut the holes out the rest of the way but for other people. I’m printing it all right now for a fallout 4 cosplay. You are amazing bro.

  53. Thank you….THANK YOU!!!!!! They just announced that the collectors edition is officially done production and they will not be doing another run, unfortunately I did not manage to get one. I will be getting one of these at the earliest opportunity. The bonus with this one is that it has the opening tape deck and actual working lights!!! Though I suppose the Beth one could have those, but from everything I have seen it doesn’t. Going to get this, your Laser Pistol design, make up an armoured Vault jumpsuit and I have my Halloween costume for 2016!!!

    You sir….ma’am? Not sure just found your site after hearing about the end of the collectors edition run. You are a God!

  54. Depends. The previous model had raw parts kits sell for around E60. They go on etsy, ebay and 3DHubs. They might come there in a few weeks/months. Else, 3D hubs also allows you to upload yourself.

  55. Hi there,

    This is incredible!!! How much would it cost to get one of these printed? Is printing these a service you could offer for those of us without 3d printers?

    Keep up the amazing work – look forward to seeing your other fallout prop!

Leave a Reply to Obsidian Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.