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Sounds great. Thanks.
The digitizer takes about 1 second per frame, multiplying the run time of the film by 16 or 24 to digitize the film. I have 10 big rolls that average 40 minutes each, which would correspond to one week of scanning. When the firmware is done, it should be possible to “launch and leave”, not wasting my own time.
Hi Dragoator,
Since we are located not that far from another, I can offer that you can use our Laser cutter (80W CO2, 600x900mm) and our pick-and-place machine if you ever decide to make more than a few electronics boards. I have some ideas for a usable and beautiful machine. I will cut some parts out when my current project, a film digitizer, is done: http://www.matthiasm.com/filmscanner.html
Hmm, ok, I can log in again. Sorry for no communication at all. Logging in with the little math formula is a pain because my Safari plugins don’t log me in automatically. Later on, the entire process was broken.
Status report on my side is “unchanged” unfortunately. I have the parts to make differential line communication for the printhead work, but no time to actually do it.
I hope your 3D printer is working again and you will be taking up steam again.
Matthias
I do not have Q2347A and I want to understand how connected 14 contacts
I can not recommend that at all. The carrier costs less than 10$US and is easily available. The contacts on the ink cartridge are on a glass substrate. They are impossible to solder and very difficult to make contact with. Please by all means, do yourself a favor and buy a holder for 8 bucks!
Oh, one more thing: these cartridges don;t last very long. So even if you fiddle contacts on them somehow, you will need to exchange the cartridge pretty soon, and refiddle everything again.
I can give you the pinout in a week when I am back in the shop,, but you have to promise that you will send photos on how you attached the wires 😉
Pretty much everything you need is here: http://spritesmods.com/?art=inker&page=3
Those cartridges are still well in use in the industrial field. They are incredibly robust. I have seen them on automated wood cutting plants to put serial numbers on freshly cut wood. They are also used in professional large-format plotters for architects. There is an official CIS available, but I forgot where I found it.
I have known about these for a while, but they are quite large and require hundreds of connectors for the five colors that I want for full-color 3D printing.
Well, I hope we can get something working for this machine or whatever 3D printer comes after it.
Yeah, the code is very rough around the edges. FLTK should compile just fine from their archives: http://www.fltk.org . It comes with Xcode and VisualStudio setups (no command line required). Maybe I missed posting some code? Also, there is a fixed path to a 3ds file in the reader, which must be changed to whatever you have on your machine.
You can also send me build issues and error messages directly, and I will try to guide you through a build: mm(AT)matthiasm.com
Alright, so here is the code for my machine that is remotely based on Pwdr. I was able to get a few models out of it, but choosing wood was idiotic, and the Y axis kept jamming. I am looking forward to get Plan B assembled and get much more time to try out powders instead of fixing the hardware over and over 😉
https://github.com/MatthiasWM/IotaSlice
PS: the software uses FLTK as a UI. The FLTK binaries for OS X are included, but the package can also be compiled for Linux and MSWindows. Note the fixed path to the .3ds file. Sorry about that – still lots of work to do.
Here are some videos of the machine:
I will put the code online that I have so far. I’ll let you guys know. It’s very rough, but I was able to do some slicing already.
As for the printhead, yes and no. I have receive the parts to implement the differential data lines, but I simply have no time to put it all together. Same with the printer itself. But my goal is still to get a full color powder based printer going at some point in the near future.
I have written one that can do it. It basically calculates a negative hull around a 3D object. Each color pixel is then converted into a thin long box, creating a very detailed 3D model where every box has a single color. Those can then be easily sliced, and the result is a monochrome filled slice with an arbitrarily thick shell in color. I use parts of OpenGL to calculate and render that, so the output is fast. My test model has a few thousand facets and renders a slice in under 3 seconds. I’ll be happy to share the code, but first I want to see a working 5-color printer 😉
Looking at the scans, I see 24 times (later in the scan even tighter) a 10ns or 20ns pulse after the “lower” encoder sees a line. I don;t think that that is noise as there are times when these spikes do not show, plus they are evenly distributed, and lastly, assuming 10ns is 0 and 20s is 1, give a very simple binary encoding without needing an external clock source.
Do you have an idea what the remaining signals are.
BTW: it’s very nice to see the acceleration and deceleration in the light sensor sampling 😉
Oh, OK. That makes sense now. I will try to get a transmitter/receiver pair to hack around a bit. Maybe the noise can be reduced with some R/C between + and – signals? The documentation show a 100 Ohm resistor.
Is the OPA2134UA the chip you used to read the LVDS? Or do you have a better chip for this? Also, when simulating those signals, what would be the right chip to generate the differential signal?
I am a bit surprised by the very high frequencies that go over this line. This can not be created with the Arduino. I hope that a RasPi can output signals that fast – I have not yet mastered FPGAs yet 😉
